Judaco Salmon DNA Moisture Soothing Cream with Niacinamide & Hyaluronate 50g | Pro Backbar

What should a calming cream actually contain? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “cream” and expect a thick, occlusive finish. The INCI shows a base of Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene and Cetearyl Alcohol, with Niacinamide, Centella Asiatica Extract and Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract behind them. We would use it as the final cushioning step of a facial for skin that feels easily bothered. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Cream, 50g backbar jar.
• Niacinamide is listed.
• Glycerin, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid are listed for hydration.
• Centella Asiatica Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice are listed.
• Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Water, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene and Cetearyl Alcohol, so this is a water-based cream. 35 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Beeswax and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride give a cushioned slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Glycerin, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Tone-focused. Niacinamide is a familiar choice for skin that looks uneven or dull.

Soothing side. Centella Asiatica Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice add a calming, comforting feel.

Supple look. Sodium DNA and Adenosine are listed for skin that looks less firm. We describe them as listed and do not rank them.

Care points. Sodium DNA is animal-derived. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a calming step to end the facial.”
• “My skin feels warm and a bit sensitive after cleansing.”

Less suited: clients with sensitivity to human- or animal-derived ingredients, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the jar closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the jar when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: the last step before the client leaves the chair, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use a clean spatula for every client and keep the jar closed between services.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Water, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Trehalose, Beeswax, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium DNA, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Illicium Verum (Anise) Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Arginine, Carbomer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Disodium EDTA, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol

FAQ

What size is it?
50g, a backbar jar.

Does it contain fragrance?
No fragrance is listed in the INCI. Patch test on the inner arm before first use.

Is any ingredient animal-derived?
Sodium DNA is listed in the INCI. Check that it is permitted in your market.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a calming step to end the facial.” does not need a product name. She needs the final cushioning step of a facial she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.