SANTE Aka Toner with Hyaluronate & Panthenol 500ml | Pro Backbar

What should a calming toner actually contain? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “toner” and expect a thin, watery product with little to say. The INCI shows a base of Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Glycerin and Methylpropanediol, with Allantoin, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone behind them. We would use it as a prep and refresh step after cleansing for skin that feels easily bothered. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Toner, 500ml backbar bottle.
• Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate and Panthenol are listed for hydration.
• Artemisia Capillaris Extract and Allantoin are listed.
• Exfoliating ingredients listed: Capryloyl Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone.
• Fragrance is listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol and Butylene Glycol rather than water, so this is a dry or low-water toner. 39 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Comfort. Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate and Panthenol add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Soothing side. Artemisia Capillaris Extract and Allantoin add a calming, comforting feel.

Smoothing. Capryloyl Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone give a refining, smoothing feel. Follow the usual cautions for exfoliating ingredients.

Ferments. Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is listed as supporting ingredients.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed; Capryloyl Salicylic Acid is an exfoliating or active ingredient. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a calming step to end the facial.”
• “My skin feels warm and a bit sensitive after cleansing.”

Less suited: clients with a damaged skin surface or recent exfoliation, clients who avoid fragrance, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the bottle closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the bottle when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: a prep step after cleansing, before the main treatment, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use cotton pads or a clean pump for each client and keep the bottle closed.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract, Erythritol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Gluconolactone, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Water, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Diospyros Kaki Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sulfur, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Decyl Glucoside, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract

FAQ

What size is it?
500ml, a backbar bottle.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

Does it contain exfoliating ingredients?
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Gluconolactone and Capryloyl Salicylic Acid are listed in the INCI. Patch test and follow the brand guidance.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a calming step to end the facial.” does not need a product name. She needs a prep and refresh step after cleansing she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.