SANTE Azulene Soother Cream with Hyaluronate & Centella 150g | Pro Backbar

What should a calming cream actually contain? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “cream” and expect a thick, occlusive finish. The INCI shows a base of Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Water, Glycerin and Isopropyl Myristate, with Guaiazulene, Centella Asiatica Extract and Squalane behind them. We would use it as the final cushioning step of a facial for skin that feels easily bothered. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Cream, 150g backbar jar.
• Glycerin, Betaine, Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate are listed for hydration.
• Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Water, Guaiazulene and Centella Asiatica Extract are listed.
• Squalane is listed.
• Fragrance is listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Water, Glycerin, Isopropyl Myristate and Betaine rather than water, so this is a dry or low-water cream. 50 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Dimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate and Sodium Polyacrylate give a light, silky slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Glycerin, Betaine, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Soothing side. Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Water, Guaiazulene and Centella Asiatica Extract add a calming, comforting feel.

Barrier-minded. Squalane supports a cushioned, protected feel.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a calming step to end the facial.”
• “My skin feels warm and a bit sensitive after cleansing.”

Less suited: clients who avoid fragrance, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the jar closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the jar when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: the last step before the client leaves the chair, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use a clean spatula for every client and keep the jar closed between services.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Water, Glycerin, Isopropyl Myristate, Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Sodium Polyacrylate, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Guaiazulene, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Beta-Glucan, Centella Asiatica Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract, Fragaria Chiloensis (Strawberry) Fruit Extract, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Squalane, Trideceth-6, Trideceth-12, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, C12-13 Alketh-23, PEG-40 Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tromethamine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Water, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Fragrance, Disodium EDTA, C12-13 Alketh-3

FAQ

What size is it?
150g, a backbar jar.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

What are the main ingredients?
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Water, Guaiazulene, Centella Asiatica Extract and Glycerin are listed. The full ingredient list is shown on this page.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a calming step to end the facial.” does not need a product name. She needs the final cushioning step of a facial she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.