Phytoderm Hyaluronic Acid 100 Essence with Niacinamide & Hyaluronate | Pro Backbar

Does a hydrating essence have to feel heavy? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “essence” and expect a heavy, sticky finish. The INCI shows a base of Butylene Glycol, Glycerin and Niacinamide, with Alpha-Arbutin, Ascorbic Acid and Allantoin behind them. We would use it as a light layering step after cleansing for dry-feeling skin. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Essence, backbar bottle.
• Niacinamide, Alpha-Arbutin and Ascorbic Acid are listed.
• Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate are listed for hydration.
• Allantoin is listed.
• No fragrance is listed in the INCI.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin and Niacinamide, so this is a water-based essence. 41 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cyclohexasiloxane and Dimethicone give a light, silky slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Tone-focused. Niacinamide, Alpha-Arbutin and Ascorbic Acid are familiar choices for skin that looks uneven or dull.

Soothing side. Allantoin adds a calming, comforting feel.

Care points. Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract is animal-derived; colorants are listed. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a light hydrating step that goes under my masks.”
• “By the afternoon my face feels dehydrated.”

Less suited: clients with sensitivity to human- or animal-derived ingredients, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the bottle closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the bottle when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: a named essence layer right after cleansing, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: decant what you need into a clean, labelled pump bottle and keep the main bottle closed.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-12, Laureth-7, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Alpha-Arbutin, Ascorbic Acid, Isopropyl Alcohol, Rosa Gallica Flower Extract, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Flower Extract, Magnolia Biondii Bud/Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract, Lilium Candidum Flower Extract, Narcissus Pseudonarcissus (Daffodil) Flower Extract, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Methylparaben, CI 19140 (Yellow 5), CI 15510 (Orange 4)

FAQ

What size is it?
See the variant options on this page.

Does it contain fragrance?
No fragrance is listed in the INCI. Patch test on the inner arm before first use.

Is any ingredient animal-derived?
Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract is listed in the INCI. Check that it is permitted in your market.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a light hydrating step that goes under my masks.” does not need a product name. She needs a light layering step after cleansing she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.