Beaute Derm Vipexin Intensive Blemish Balm BB Cream with Niacinamide 50ml | Pro Backbar

Can a BB cream for uneven-looking skin stay gentle? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “BB cream” and expect a heavy, masking finish. The INCI shows a base of Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Titanium Dioxide and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, with Niacinamide, Centella Asiatica Extract and Adenosine behind them. We would use it as a finishing step with light coverage for dull, uneven-looking skin. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• BB cream, 50ml backbar tube.
• Niacinamide is listed.
• Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate are listed for hydration.
• Centella Asiatica Extract is listed.
• Squalane, Ceramide NP and Ceramide NS are listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Titanium Dioxide and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, so this is a water-based BB cream. 72 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and Dimethicone give a light, silky slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Tone-focused. Niacinamide is a familiar choice for skin that looks uneven or dull.

Soothing side. Centella Asiatica Extract adds a calming, comforting feel.

Supple look. Adenosine is listed for skin that looks less firm. We describe them as listed and do not rank them.

Care points. Human Umbilical Mesenchymal Stem Cell Conditioned Media Extract is a human-derived ingredient; Titanium Dioxide, Butyloctyl Salicylate and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate are sun-filter or mineral ingredients, which fall under market sunscreen rules. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a brighter-looking finish to the facial.”
• “My complexion looks tired by the evening.”

Less suited: clients who need a sunscreen outside the labelled use, clients with sensitivity to human- or animal-derived ingredients, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the tube closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the tube when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: a light finishing step before the client leaves the chair, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: dispense onto a clean palette for each client and keep the cap closed.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Titanium Dioxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Magnesium Sulfate, Beeswax, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Microcrystalline Wax, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Triethoxycaprylsilane, Aluminum Hydroxide, Adenosine, Pullulan, Fructooligosaccharides, 1,2-Hexanediol, Zinc PCA, Panthenol, Human Umbilical Mesenchymal Stem Cell Conditioned Media Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Beta-Glucan, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Mastic Gum, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Squalane, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, BHT, Glycine, Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Isoleucine, Ceramide NS, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Cholesterol, Polysorbate 20, Phytosphingosine, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Ceramide AS, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP

FAQ

What size is it?
50ml, a backbar tube.

Does it contain fragrance?
No fragrance is listed in the INCI. Patch test on the inner arm before first use.

Is any ingredient human-derived?
Yes. Human Umbilical Mesenchymal Stem Cell Conditioned Media Extract is listed in the INCI. Check that it is permitted in your market.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a brighter-looking finish to the facial.” does not need a product name. She needs a finishing step with light coverage she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.