ERTY 21 Cleansing Milk with Centella & Panthenol 480ml | Pro Backbar

What makes a cleanser suitable for the treatment room? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “cleanser” and expect a harsh, stripping wash. The INCI shows a water-based wash led by Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, with Niacinamide, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract and Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract behind them. We would use it as the first step of a facial for clients who wear makeup and sunscreen every day. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Cleanser, 480ml backbar bottle.
• Niacinamide is listed.
• Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate are listed for hydration.
• Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract and Asiaticoside are listed.
• Exfoliating ingredients listed: Lactic Acid.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, so this is a water-based cleanser. 62 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Cetearyl Olivate give a cushioned slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Tone-focused. Niacinamide is a familiar choice for skin that looks uneven or dull.

Soothing side. Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Asiaticoside and Madecassic Acid add a calming, comforting feel.

Smoothing. Lactic Acid gives a refining, smoothing feel. Follow the usual cautions for exfoliating ingredients.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed; Lactic Acid is an exfoliating or active ingredient. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a clean start to the facial that is not harsh.”
• “I wear makeup and sunscreen every day.”

Less suited: clients with a damaged skin surface or recent exfoliation, clients who avoid fragrance, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the bottle closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the bottle when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: the first step of every facial, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use a clean pump for each client and keep the bottle closed.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Olivate, Coco-Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Decyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Stearate, C14-22 Alcohols, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Palmitic Acid, Tromethamine, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Fragrance, Limonene, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil, Xanthan Gum, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Illicium Verum (Anise) Fruit Extract, Lactic Acid, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Linalool, Myristic Acid, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Glucose, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Extract, Hyacinthus Orientalis (Hyacinth) Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Beta-Glucan, Ceramide NP, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate

FAQ

What size is it?
480ml, a backbar bottle.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

Does it contain exfoliating ingredients?
Lactic Acid and Lactic Acid are listed in the INCI. Patch test and follow the brand guidance.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a clean start to the facial that is not harsh.” does not need a product name. She needs the first step of a facial she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.