SANTE Active Cleansing Soother with Centella & Panthenol 500ml | Pro Backbar

What makes a cleanser suitable for the treatment room? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “cleanser” and expect a harsh, stripping wash. The INCI shows a water-based wash led by Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Sodium Laureth Sulfate and TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate, with Centella Asiatica Extract, Guaiazulene and Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract behind them. We would use it as the first step of a facial for clients who wear makeup and sunscreen every day. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Cleanser, 500ml backbar bottle.
• Glycerin and Panthenol are listed for hydration.
• Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract and Guaiazulene are listed.
• Exfoliating ingredients listed: Lactic Acid.
• Fragrance is listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Water, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Sodium Laureth Sulfate and TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate, so this is a water-based cleanser. 46 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil gives a cushioned slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Glycerin and Panthenol add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Soothing side. Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Guaiazulene and Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract add a calming, comforting feel.

Smoothing. Lactic Acid gives a refining, smoothing feel. Follow the usual cautions for exfoliating ingredients.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed; Lactic Acid is an exfoliating or active ingredient; Benzyl Salicylate is a sun-filter or mineral ingredient, which falls under market sunscreen rules. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a clean start to the facial that is not harsh.”
• “I wear makeup and sunscreen every day.”

Less suited: clients who need a sunscreen outside the labelled use, clients with a damaged skin surface or recent exfoliation, clients who avoid fragrance and reactive or irritated skin. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the bottle closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the bottle when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: the first step of every facial, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use a clean pump for each client and keep the bottle closed.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Water, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Lauryl Glucoside, Glycerin, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Propylene Glycol, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Panthenol, Beta-Glucan, Guaiazulene, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Fish Extract, Sargassum Muticum Extract, Mussel Extract, Sodium Chloride, Polyquaternium-7, Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-10, Disodium EDTA, Benzophenone-4, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chitin, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Fragrance, Sodium Benzoate, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Geraniol, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Salicylate

FAQ

What size is it?
500ml, a backbar bottle.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

Does it contain exfoliating ingredients?
Lactic Acid and Lactic Acid are listed in the INCI. Patch test and follow the brand guidance.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a clean start to the facial that is not harsh.” does not need a product name. She needs the first step of a facial she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.