MPC Stem Cell Moisturizing Cream with Niacinamide & Adenosine 100ml | Pro Backbar

Does a hydrating cream have to feel heavy? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “cream” and expect a thick, occlusive finish. The INCI shows a base of Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, with Niacinamide, Allantoin and sh-Oligopeptide-1 behind them. We would use it as the final cushioning step of a facial for dry-feeling skin. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Cream, 100ml backbar jar.
• Niacinamide is listed.
• Propanediol and Glycerin are listed for hydration.
• Peptides listed: sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1 and sh-Polypeptide-22.
• Allantoin is listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Water, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, so this is a water-based cream. 49 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter and Cyclopentasiloxane give a light, silky slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Propanediol and Glycerin add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Tone-focused. Niacinamide is a familiar choice for skin that looks uneven or dull.

Soothing side. Allantoin adds a calming, comforting feel.

Supple look. sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-22 and Adenosine are listed for skin that looks less firm. We describe them as listed and do not rank them.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed; Human Adipocyte Conditioned Media Extract is a human-derived ingredient; Caviar Extract is animal-derived. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a light hydrating step that goes under my masks.”
• “By the afternoon my face feels dehydrated.”

Less suited: clients with sensitivity to human- or animal-derived ingredients, clients who avoid fragrance, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the jar closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the jar when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: the last step before the client leaves the chair, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use a clean spatula for every client and keep the jar closed between services.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Water, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Beeswax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Human Adipocyte Conditioned Media Extract, Dimethyl Sulfone, sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-22, Caviar Extract, Squalane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Potassium Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Sorbitan Stearate, Carbomer, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hexadecane, Tetradecane, Illicium Verum (Anise) Fruit Extract, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Adenosine, Dodecane, Octadecane, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Eicosane, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Linalool

FAQ

What size is it?
100ml, a backbar jar.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

Is any ingredient human-derived?
Yes. Human Adipocyte Conditioned Media Extract is listed in the INCI. Check that it is permitted in your market.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a light hydrating step that goes under my masks.” does not need a product name. She needs the final cushioning step of a facial she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.