MEDIPAIR Collagen Veil Cream with Hyaluronate 50ml | Pro Backbar

Is a peptide-led cream worth a place on the backbar? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “cream” and expect a thick, occlusive finish. The INCI shows a base of Hydrolyzed Collagen Water, Glycerin and Butylene Glycol, with rh-Oligopeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Copper Tripeptide-1 behind them. We would use it as the final cushioning step of a facial for mature-looking skin. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Cream, 50ml backbar jar.
• Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate are listed for hydration.
• Peptides listed: rh-Oligopeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4.
• Squalane is listed.
• Fragrance is listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Hydrolyzed Collagen Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol and Cetyl Ethylhexanoate rather than water, so this is a dry or low-water cream. 59 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane and Cetearyl Alcohol give a light, silky slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Supple look. rh-Oligopeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 and Tripeptide-1 are listed for skin that looks less firm. We describe them as listed and do not rank them.

Barrier-minded. Squalane supports a cushioned, protected feel.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed; Sodium DNA is animal-derived. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a facial that ends with a step she can feel.”
• “Fine lines show more around my eyes in the evening.”

Less suited: clients with sensitivity to human- or animal-derived ingredients, clients who avoid fragrance, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the jar closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the jar when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: the last step before the client leaves the chair, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use a clean spatula for every client and keep the jar closed between services.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Hydrolyzed Collagen Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Stearic Acid, PEG-40 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Squalane, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Arginine, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Acrylate/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Proline, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Sodium DNA, rh-Oligopeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Callus Culture Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Callus Culture Extract, Carbomer, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Chlorphenesin, BHT, Fragrance

FAQ

What size is it?
50ml, a backbar jar.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

Is any ingredient animal-derived?
Sodium DNA is listed in the INCI. Check that it is permitted in your market.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a facial that ends with a step she can feel.” does not need a product name. She needs the final cushioning step of a facial she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.