LEZE Renewal Cream with Niacinamide & Hyaluronate 35ml | Pro Backbar

Is a peptide-led cream worth a place on the backbar? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “cream” and expect a thick, occlusive finish. The INCI shows a base of Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane and Butylene Glycol, with Niacinamide, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract and Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract behind them. We would use it as the final cushioning step of a facial for mature-looking skin. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Cream, 35ml backbar jar.
• Niacinamide is listed.
• Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate are listed for hydration.
• Peptides listed: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 and rh-Oligopeptide-1.
• Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract and Allantoin are listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane and Butylene Glycol, so this is a water-based cream. 48 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter give a light, silky slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Tone-focused. Niacinamide is a familiar choice for skin that looks uneven or dull.

Soothing side. Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract and Allantoin add a calming, comforting feel.

Supple look. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, rh-Oligopeptide-1 and Adenosine are listed for skin that looks less firm. We describe them as listed and do not rank them.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed; Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Titanium Dioxide are sun-filter or mineral ingredients, which fall under market sunscreen rules. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a facial that ends with a step she can feel.”
• “Fine lines show more around my eyes in the evening.”

Less suited: clients who need a sunscreen outside the labelled use, clients who avoid fragrance, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the jar closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the jar when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: the last step before the client leaves the chair, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use a clean spatula for every client and keep the jar closed between services.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Extract, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Apple Mint Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Spearmint Leaf Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract, Peppermint Leaf Extract, Lavender Flower Extract, Wild Geranium Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Sodium Chloride, Titanium Dioxide, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cholesterol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, rh-Oligopeptide-1, Chlorphenesin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance

FAQ

What size is it?
35ml, a backbar jar.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

What are the main ingredients?
Niacinamide, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract and Allantoin are listed. The full ingredient list is shown on this page.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a facial that ends with a step she can feel.” does not need a product name. She needs the final cushioning step of a facial she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.