Eclat du teint Amino Cream 50ml | Pro Backbar

Does a barrier-minded cream need to be rich? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “cream” and expect a thick, occlusive finish. The INCI shows a base of Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane and Glycerin, with Niacinamide, Glutathione and Allantoin behind them. We would use it as the final cushioning step of a facial for dry, mature-looking skin. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Cream, 50ml backbar jar.
• Niacinamide and Glutathione are listed.
• Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate are listed for hydration.
• Peptides listed: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 and Tripeptide-1.
• Allantoin, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract and Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract are listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane and Glycerin, so this is a water-based cream. 84 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Cyclopentasiloxane and Cyclohexasiloxane give a light, silky slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate and Panthenol add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Tone-focused. Niacinamide and Glutathione are familiar choices for skin that looks uneven or dull.

Soothing side. Allantoin, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract and Madecassoside add a calming, comforting feel.

Supple look. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 are listed for skin that looks less firm. We describe them as listed and do not rank them.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed; Caramel is animal-derived; Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Titanium Dioxide are sun-filter or mineral ingredients, which fall under market sunscreen rules. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a facial that ends with a cushioning step.”
• “My skin feels rough in cold weather.”

Less suited: clients who need a sunscreen outside the labelled use, clients with sensitivity to human- or animal-derived ingredients, clients who avoid fragrance and reactive or irritated skin. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the jar closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the jar when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: the last step before the client leaves the chair, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use a clean spatula for every client and keep the jar closed between services.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Proline, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Butylene Glycol, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Beeswax, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Sodium Chloride, Titanium Dioxide, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Germ Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Steareth-21, Steareth-2, Propylene Glycol, Lecithin, Polysorbate 60, Chlorphenesin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Niacinamide, Caramel, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Extract, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Geranium Maculatum Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glutathione, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Madecassoside, Panthenol, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cholesterol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Limonene

FAQ

What size is it?
50ml, a backbar jar.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

Is any ingredient animal-derived?
Caramel is listed in the INCI. Check that it is permitted in your market.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a facial that ends with a cushioning step.” does not need a product name. She needs the final cushioning step of a facial she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.