VEMONTES Axcne Booster Cream with Hyaluronate & Tea Tree 50ml | Pro Backbar

Is a peptide-led cream worth a place on the backbar? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “cream” and expect a thick, occlusive finish. The INCI shows a base of Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and Isohexadecane, with Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Allantoin behind them. We would use it as the final cushioning step of a facial for mature-looking skin. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Cream, 50ml backbar jar.
• Sodium Hyaluronate is listed for hydration.
• Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Allantoin are listed.
• Fragrance is listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Isohexadecane and Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil rather than water, so this is a dry or low-water cream. 36 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol and Cyclopentasiloxane give a light, silky slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Sodium Hyaluronate adds a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Soothing side. Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Allantoin add a calming, comforting feel.

Plant side. Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract add a soft, plant-led accent.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed; denatured alcohol is listed. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a facial that ends with a step she can feel.”
• “Fine lines show more around my eyes in the evening.”

Less suited: clients who avoid fragrance, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the jar closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the jar when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: the last step before the client leaves the chair, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use a clean spatula for every client and keep the jar closed between services.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Isohexadecane, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Beta-Sitosterol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Arachidyl Glucoside, Alcohol, Asarum Sieboldii Root Extract, Dioscorea Polystachya Extract, Arginine, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract, Illicium Verum (Anise) Fruit Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Fragrance, Calcium Oxide, Chlorphenesin, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Allantoin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chromium Oxide Greens

FAQ

What size is it?
50ml, a backbar jar.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

What are the main ingredients?
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Allantoin and Sodium Hyaluronate are listed. The full ingredient list is shown on this page.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a facial that ends with a step she can feel.” does not need a product name. She needs the final cushioning step of a facial she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.