Beaute Derm Skin Exotosin Elixir Moisturizing Cream with Niacinamide 150ml | Pro Backbar

Does a hydrating cream have to feel heavy? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “cream” and expect a thick, occlusive finish. The INCI shows a base of Butylene Glycol, Glycerin and Propanediol, with Niacinamide, Allantoin and Centella Asiatica Extract behind them. We would use it as the final cushioning step of a facial for dry-feeling skin. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Cream, 150ml backbar jar.
• Niacinamide is listed.
• Glycerin, Propanediol, Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate are listed for hydration.
• Allantoin and Centella Asiatica Extract are listed.
• Squalane and Ceramide NP are listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin and Propanediol, so this is a water-based cream. 63 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone and Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer give a light, silky slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Glycerin, Propanediol, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Tone-focused. Niacinamide is a familiar choice for skin that looks uneven or dull.

Soothing side. Allantoin and Centella Asiatica Extract add a calming, comforting feel.

Supple look. Adenosine and Sodium DNA are listed for skin that looks less firm. We describe them as listed and do not rank them.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed; Sodium DNA is animal-derived. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a light hydrating step that goes under my masks.”
• “By the afternoon my face feels dehydrated.”

Less suited: clients with sensitivity to human- or animal-derived ingredients, clients who avoid fragrance, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the jar closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the jar when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: the last step before the client leaves the chair, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use a clean spatula for every client and keep the jar closed between services.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Dicaprylyl Ether, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Arginine, Vinyl Dimethicone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Panthenol, C9-12 Alkane, Squalane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Glucoside, Dimethiconol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Sorbitan Isostearate, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine, Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Tocopherol, Psidium Guajava Leaf Extract, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Ceramide NP, Isoleucine, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Sodium DNA, Sasa Quelpaertensis Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Fragrance

FAQ

What size is it?
150ml, a backbar jar.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

Is any ingredient animal-derived?
Sodium DNA is listed in the INCI. Check that it is permitted in your market.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a light hydrating step that goes under my masks.” does not need a product name. She needs the final cushioning step of a facial she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.