SANTE Collagen Leader Toner with Niacinamide & Centella 500ml | Pro Backbar

Is a peptide-led toner worth a place on the backbar? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “toner” and expect a thin, watery product with little to say. The INCI shows a base of Glycerin, Butylene Glycol and Niacinamide, with Centella Asiatica Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 behind them. We would use it as a prep and refresh step after cleansing for mature-looking skin. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Toner, 500ml backbar bottle.
• Niacinamide is listed.
• Glycerin, Panthenol, Glycereth-26 and Methylpropanediol are listed for hydration.
• Peptides listed: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.
• Centella Asiatica Extract is listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol and Niacinamide, so this is a water-based toner. 41 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Comfort. Glycerin, Panthenol, Glycereth-26, Methylpropanediol and Propanediol add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Tone-focused. Niacinamide is a familiar choice for skin that looks uneven or dull.

Soothing side. Centella Asiatica Extract adds a calming, comforting feel.

Supple look. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Tripeptide-1 are listed for skin that looks less firm. We describe them as listed and do not rank them.

Smoothing. Capryloyl Salicylic Acid gives a refining, smoothing feel. Follow the usual cautions for exfoliating ingredients.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed; Capryloyl Salicylic Acid is an exfoliating or active ingredient. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a facial that ends with a step she can feel.”
• “Fine lines show more around my eyes in the evening.”

Less suited: clients with a damaged skin surface or recent exfoliation, clients who avoid fragrance, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the bottle closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the bottle when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: a prep step after cleansing, before the main treatment, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use cotton pads or a clean pump for each client and keep the bottle closed.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Glycereth-26, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Callus Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Adenosine, Ectoin, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, Brassica Oleracea Capitata (Cabbage) Leaf Extract, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Maltodextrin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylhydroxamic acid, C12-14 Pareth-12, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Methylpropanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Fragrance

FAQ

What size is it?
500ml, a backbar bottle.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

Does it contain exfoliating ingredients?
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid and Capryloyl Salicylic Acid are listed in the INCI. Patch test and follow the brand guidance.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a facial that ends with a step she can feel.” does not need a product name. She needs a prep and refresh step after cleansing she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.