SANTE Collagen Leader Cream with Collagen & Peptides 150g | Pro Backbar

Does a collagen cream have to be heavy? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “collagen cream” and expect a thick, occlusive finish. The INCI shows a lighter emulsion: isododecane and a C9-12 alkane in the base, with hydrolyzed collagen, ceramide NP, a run of peptides and Human Stem Cell Conditioned Media behind them. We would use it as the final cushioning step for dry, mature-looking skin.

At a glance

• Face cream, 150g backbar jar.
• Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ceramide NP and Panthenol are listed.
• Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tripeptide-1 and Copper Tripeptide-1 are listed.
• Human Stem Cell Conditioned Media is listed in the INCI.
• Fragrance is listed.

Reading the formula

Texture. Isododecane, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, C9-12 Alkane and Phenyl Trimethicone give a light, cushioned slip rather than a waxy film.

Comfort. Glycerin, Panthenol, Maltodextrin, Hydrolyzed Collagen and Ceramide NP add a moisture-rich, supple feel.

Peptide set. Six peptides are listed after the base. We describe them as listed and do not rank them.

Botanicals. Rose water, Camellia Japonica seed oil, flower and seed extracts and Melissa extract add a plant-led accent, with Cyanocobalamin and Tocopheryl Acetate.

Care points. The INCI lists Human Stem Cell Conditioned Media, a human-derived ingredient, and Fragrance. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “My skin feels dry and a bit thin by evening.”
• “I want a facial that ends with a cream she can feel.”

Less suited: clients who avoid fragrance, reactive or irritated skin, clients with sensitivity to human-derived ingredients, and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the jar closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the jar when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Backbar handling: use a clean spatula for every client and keep the jar closed between services.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Water, Isododecane, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Glycerin, C9-12 Alkane, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Panthenol, Maltodextrin, Human Stem Cell Conditioned Media, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Ceramide NP, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Camellia Japonica Seed Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic acid, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propylene Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Sodium Chloride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Methylpropanediol, Fragrance

FAQ

What size is it?
150g, a backbar jar.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance is listed in the INCI.

Is any ingredient human-derived?
Yes. Human Stem Cell Conditioned Media is listed in the INCI. Check that it is permitted in your market.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who feels dry and a bit thin by evening does not need “collagen”. She needs a cushioning finishing cream she can feel on her skin, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.