ARNIE Muse Lasting Moisture Cream with Niacinamide & Hyaluronate 50ml | Pro Backbar

Does a hydrating cream have to feel heavy? We read the INCI before the label.

Most practitioners hear “cream” and expect a thick, occlusive finish. The INCI shows a base of Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and Butylene Glycol, with Niacinamide, Glutathione and Allantoin behind them. We would use it as the final cushioning step of a facial for dry-feeling skin. Read the list below the way a supplier would: what is there, in what order, and what that suggests about the feel on the skin.

At a glance

• Cream, 50ml backbar jar.
• Niacinamide and Glutathione are listed.
• Glycerin, Betaine, Trehalose and Sodium Hyaluronate are listed for hydration.
• Allantoin is listed.
• Fragrance is listed.

Reading the formula

Order of the list. The list opens with Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Water and Butylene Glycol rather than water, so this is a dry or low-water cream. 31 ingredients are listed in full below, and we describe only what the INCI shows.

Texture. Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetearyl Olivate, PEG-10 Dimethicone and Beeswax give a light, silky slip rather than a heavy film.

Comfort. Glycerin, Betaine, Trehalose and Sodium Hyaluronate add a moisture-rich, comfortable feel.

Tone-focused. Niacinamide and Glutathione are familiar choices for skin that looks uneven or dull.

Soothing side. Allantoin adds a calming, comforting feel.

Supple look. Adenosine is listed for skin that looks less firm. We describe them as listed and do not rank them.

Care points. Fragrance (or fragrance allergens) is listed. Check your market rules and patch test sensitive clients.

Which clients

Closest fit, in her own words:

• “I want a light hydrating step that goes under my masks.”
• “By the afternoon my face feels dehydrated.”

Less suited: clients who avoid fragrance, reactive or irritated skin and clients straight after a procedure. For that last group, follow your own aftercare protocol.

In the treatment room

• Storage: keep the jar closed, away from direct sunlight and heat, and follow the storage line on the pack.
• Opening date: write it on the jar when you open it.
• Patch test: test on a small area and wait 24 hours before a full-face first use.
• Where it fits: the last step before the client leaves the chair, with the product name written on the menu so clients can ask for it again.
• Backbar handling: use a clean spatula for every client and keep the jar closed between services.

Product details

Full ingredients (INCI): Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Water, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Beeswax, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Allantoin, Betaine, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Fragrance, Adenosine, Caprylyl Glycol, Crocus Sativus Flower Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Glutathione, Benzyl Benzoate, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool

FAQ

What size is it?
50ml, a backbar jar.

Does it contain fragrance?
Yes. Fragrance or fragrance allergens are listed in the INCI.

What are the main ingredients?
Niacinamide, Glutathione, Allantoin and Glycerin are listed. The full ingredient list is shown on this page.

Choose the treatment your clients need, not the ingredient. A client who says “I want a light hydrating step that goes under my masks.” does not need a product name. She needs the final cushioning step of a facial she can feel, and a reason to book the next visit. Make it a named step in your menu and the rebooking follows.